I decided to make my first ever foray into Cathedral Provincial Park and Protected Area earlier this summer. I had been meaning to make a trip to this park for a while, but I never seemed to find the time. I had already put the trip off twice this year, once because there was too much snow in the park, and again because of a bad thunderstorm (which in the park was apparently a blizzard).
Being so close to such a popular hiking destination and having never gone to it, I was pretty heart set on finding the time to explore Cathedral Park this summer. I had taken time off work to go, but that was the week of the blizzard. I didn't want to try to get more time off, so I decided to try to cram my 4 planned days of hiking into 2 days. I was pretty sure I would regret this.
Most people take a shuttle into the Cathedral Park core area. I opted against this for a few reasons. For one, I'm quite a cheap individual, and didn't feel like coughing up the money to take the shuttle. Also, it would have restricted my schedule on the second day. Finally, I felt like I needed to sweat and suffer a bit if I truly wanted to appreciate the park. For those reasons, I decided to take the 16 km Lakeview Trail into the core area of the park.
I got off work at 11 pm the night before I was going to leave. My plan was to leave Princeton at 3 am, so I didn't really get any sleep. I left at 3 as planned and got to the Lakeview parking lot around 5 am. I saw 2 other cars in the parking lot, while I saw a very full lot at the shuttle parking. I could tell this was not the popular way of getting into the park.
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The start of the Lakeview Trail |
The first bit of the trail followed the private access road, eventually breaking off for good about 2.5 km in. The grade climbed up very steadily, giving me a good workout early on.
After a good 5 km or so through the woods, I came to a little clearing where the trail began to climb very steeply. I struggled up, eventually getting on top of a ridge. I could see some of the features of the core area of the park in the distance. It was a nice tease of what I would see up close later.
The trail followed the ridge for a little while and the grade got a bit more reasonable. As I got back into the woods, I began to encounter many spider webs. I hoped that whoever hiked the trail after me would be grateful for all of the webs to the face I took. It actually got bad enough that I had to put my jacket back on. The feeling of the webs dragging along my arms was really starting to weird me out.
I ran into a kilometer that was pretty much solid mud. Try as I might to not get my pants filthy, I ended up stepping in one or two patches of mud that were much deeper than I anticipated.
After a while I crossed into the core area of the park. I was hoping I would maybe start to see a bit more scenery. Other than the one little clearing I had crossed, my views for the day had been trees and mud.
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Entering the core area |
The trail eventually entered a little meadow, and I soon ended up at the height of the climb. I began the descent into Quiniscoe Lake, encountering a few hikers along the way.
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The meadows, with Scout Mountain in the background |
At Quiniscoe Lake I had my lunch of hummus and crackers. It occurred to me that I had done what most people considered a full day hike, and I still had another full day hike to look forward to. It was about 10 am, so the trail had taken me 5 hours to complete. I was hopeful that making good time would put me under less pressure for my next hike: the Rim Trail.
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Quiniscoe Lake |
I had heard that there were a couple of groups doing the Rim Trail in the same direction as me. I doubted very much that I would run into them, but I was fairly certain I would run into at least a few people doing the hike in the other direction.
I decided the hike to Glacier Lake and climb up to the rim from there. I climbed up into another meadow with patches of alpine larch trees.
The trail worked its way to Glacier Lake where I began the rocky ascent to the rim. I was glad I went up here instead of down here; it would have been very difficult to climb down all of the loose rocks.
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Glacier Lake at the base of Pyramid Mountain |
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The ascent from Glacier Lake |
I got on top of the rim and was immediately rewarded with some amazing views of the Cascade Mountains. I could see a number of mountains in Manning Park that I had climbed, as well as other mountains in the area that I was familiar with. It was kind of interesting to see an area I had spent so much time in from a different angle.
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Up the rim |
After stopping to rest up, I continued along the rim. After the ascent the rest of the hike was pretty easy. I took lots of pictures and just kind of meandered along at a slow pace. The sleep deprivation and physical exhaustion were starting to set in, and I found that I had next to no energy left.
I passed by Ladyslipper Lake and continued on to the Devil's Woodpile, a basalt rock formation.
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Glacier Lake |
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Ladyslipper Lake |
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The Devil's Woodpile |
From the Devil's Woodpile I hiked to Stone City. Along the way I ran into a number of interesting rock formations, before getting to the city itself where there were piles of boulders as big as houses.
I ended up running into both groups that had been doing the rim and spent a bit of time hiking with each. I hadn't been expecting that, but it was a nice surprise. Given my exhausted state, it was nice to let somebody else do the route finding.
I left my pack around Stone City and hiked to Smokey the Bear, a rock formation that forms the silhouette of the fire fighting bear.
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Smokey the Bear |
I continued on to the Giant Cleft, losing the trail numerous times. I ended up doing a bit of unnecessary rock climbing on one such occasion, as I was too stubborn to turn back and find a better route.
The Giant Cleft was larger than I had expected it to be. I was impressed at just how straight the split in the rocks was.
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The Giant Cleft |
I returned to Stone City and got my pack, beginning the long descent to Ladyslipper Lake. I saw a couple of mountain goats along the way. I saw even more goat droppings along the way. Fun times.
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Ladyslipper Lake |
From Ladyslipper Lake I continued on to the Lake of the Woods, where I intended to camp for the night. As I got close to the campsite it began to lightly drizzle. From what I could see, it was raining pretty hard in the distance. I think I ended up hiking right around the boundary where the rain stopped. I was really hoping I wouldn't get one of the infamous sudden changes of weather I had heard plagued this area. I didn't want to have to pack up a soaking wet tent and carry it in my backpack for a full day.
I set up my tent at the campsite and fell asleep almost immediately. I still had another full day of hiking ahead of me, and I needed all of the rest I could get.
You can read about the second day of my trip
here.
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Lake of the Woods |